John Radford writes about Valduero

   

It's entirely possible that you may be tired of me going on about how good Spanish wines are and the amazing value that they represent especially when compared to other European wines. Well, too bad! 

  

It would appear that John Radford, the English wine critic who specialises in Spain, agrees with me. He has just written up our Albillo 2010 (although he has put by mistake 2008 in his notes!) and Valduero 6 años 2004 on his blog and given both wines very good recommendations.

Bodegas Valduero, Gumiel del Mercado (Ribera del Duero)
Profile from THE NEW SPAIN (2004 edition)
www.bodegasvalduero.com,
EST. 1983 - in beguiling old Castilian cellars which were formerly part of a co-operative, this bodega has one of the region's most famous female consultant winemakers - Yolanda García - who has inspired a whole generation of young women to train in the profession. The bodega has 200 ha of vines and although it built a spanking new winery about 2 km out of town in the early 2000s, the oldest wines - and visitors - still go to the 16th-century labyrinth in Gumiel.

 

 

2008 (2010) García Viadero Albillo, IGP Castilla y León - 12% abv - £9-£10 Hurrah! Another formerly-despised grape variety back from the dead, proving the Radford apophthegm that there is no such thing as a crap grape, just crap winemaking. Under the skilled hand of Yolanda García the Albillo gives us a delicious, herby fruit, fresh acidity and a crisp, bone-dry finish. 17/20

 

 2004 Valduero 6 Años Reserva Premium - old-vines Tempranillo - 14% - 24 months in oak (from 4 different countries) plus 48 in bottle - £55-£60
'Meaty', blackberry fruit, rich, subtle oak on the nose, gorgeous rich fruit and toasty oak on the foretaste with some working tannins under the surface, lovely fruit on mid-palate, tannins on length, needs another few years. Best 2014 onwards. 19/20

 

We team-tasted this with an £85 bottle of Rioja, and the Valduero won, especially with slow-roasted shoulder of lamb with leek and rosemary in a red-wine marinade. It had a neck label announcing that Robert Parker had given it 94 points. I didn't need to know that (although I do understand that, for the uninitiated, it's a useful marketing tool) but here's another Radford apophthegm, (paraphrased from the late and mightily unlamented Herman Göering) - 'when I hear the name 'Robert Parker' I reach for my revolver.'

Yolanda García, winemaker extraordinaire
(all pics from the bodega's website)

You can read more of Johns writing at his blog http://johnradfordcom.blogspot.com/

What do you think? Have you tried these wines or other wines from Valduero? Please let us know what you think.